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Day 15
I set off in waterproofs again. All went smoothly, although not particularly pleasantly, over
the grassy outliers Craig-y-llyn and Tyrrau Mawr in thick mist and cold driving rain. At
least it was beating onto my right shoulder and not driving into my face. I tried to take a
beeline for Cyfrwy, which of course I could not see, and I probably left the main track too
soon which resulted in unpleasant scrambling over piles of wet and slippery boulders before
I joined a cairned route, still very rough, which led to the cairn and windshelter on this
summit.
Now I had to go out and back to Craig Cwm Amarch which is on the popular route up
from Tal-y-llyn, an ascent which I have done several times. I recollected my first ever climb
of Cader Idris with my parents. In those days it was always spelt in this anglicised way and
we English at least presumed the Welsh language to be in a state of terminal decline. My
father, who preferred the lazy beach holidays which he had enjoyed when we were content
to paddle and build sandcastles, suddenly rebelled against being dragged up hills by his
offspring and announced 'this will be my last mountain'.
Later I came here with Rowland
and for the first time in my life climbed through the clouds into brilliant sunshine. There
was no breath of wind and just the highest tops could be seen northwards above the sea of
cloud. Since then I have experienced this magic many times but the first time is always
something special. I can still feel the excitement of that day as I gazed spellbound at this
unfamiliar aspect of the mountains. We just sat in the sun and stared and stared, locking the
scene into our minds as a precious memory, unwilling to descend again into the grey world
below.
Today was to become another day to remember for as I returned from Craig Cwm
Amarch rifts started to appear in the clouds. There were glimpses of sunny meadows to the
west and of the corrie lake, Llyn Cau, seen far below through the swirling mist. Thick mist
prevailed at the summit so I went into the roofed but rather dismal shelter for a belated
lunch at about 3pm. Rain trickled down the walls onto the uninviting benches and only
relief from the bitter wind kept me inside. Still I do not really wholeheartedly approve of a
hut in such a situation and if it were too comfortable it would probably attract groups to
sleep up there with attendant problems of litter and vandalism.
When I emerged I could see Cyfrwy across a swirl of mist. I just had time to get the
camera out and photograph it before it vanished again. However better weather was surely
coming and by the time I had walked down the east ridge to Mynydd Moel the sun was
shining although there was still also a bitterly cold wind. Looking back the highest top was
still veiled in mist but all the others could now be seen as well as the steep northern
escarpment of this magnificent mountain.
As I continued eastwards and dropped lower along this very attractive ridge of rock and
heather it became quite warm and sunny. I would like to have camped here but there was
no water and it was too early. Yet I foresaw problems if I went too high on the next group
of hills because I would surely get back into the strong wind. As I lingered on the last top,
Gau Graig, sunbathing and pondering the problem, I spotted what looked like an old quarry
high on the slopes of Waun-oer which I thought might be both flat and sheltered. I carried
water up to it and managed to pitch the tent. It was indeed fairly sheltered and acceptably
flat but getting the tent erected was not totally straightforward since the ground consisted of
slates overgrown with moss. As far as views were concerned however it was magnificent,
looking straight across the valley to the Cadair Idris range with the Rhinogs visible behind.
next day
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