The steep prow of Cioch Beinn an Eoin looked far too steep and craggy for comfort so I slanted up behind it onto the long east ridge of the hill. Immediately a magnificent panorama was revealed. There was fresh snow on all the surrounding hills. Even little Stac Pollaidh had a coating though it quickly melted in the strong sunshine. Beyond was Suilven seen in profile and much closer at hand the Corbett, Cul Beag. As I walked along the ridge its higher neighbour Cul Mor was gradually revealed beyond. Southwards lay the impressive prow of Sgurr an Fhidhleir sticking out from the great mass of Ben Mor Coigach behind. These two hills were our first Grahams, long before Grahams had been invented and before we had even heard of Munros! In those days most of our walks in the hills were selected from the guidebooks of W.A.Poucher, illustrated by his splendid photos on which the routes were drawn in white ink.
At the summit the ridge turns northwards down a few rocky steps and I went along to the far end for the view across a loch strewn landscape to isolated snow showers driving in across the sea. The direct descent down this nose encounters vertical rock with even an unusual waterfall right on the prow. I withdrew a short distance to make my way down to the corrie lake. The descent was treacherous with soft fresh snow lying on very wet moss and grass. The ascent on the other side was on similar terrain but seemed less unpleasant without the threat of an ignominous slip onto one's bottom in the mud.
Sgorr Tuath was deleted from the Marilyn list when it was discovered that the drop between these hills was only 148m instead of the necessary 150m. It is no less fine a hill for this demotion and to miss it out would be unthinkable!
Just as I arrived on the ridge a violent snowstorm started and visibility was reduced to a few yards. I cowered behind a rock hoping that it would pass. After about ten minutes there was no sign of it abating so I decided to climb up the small distance to the summit. On the way I encountered spectacular pinnacles. Worth a picture, I thought, even in the mist. As I took the photo Stac Polly appeared, vaguely at first and then in full splendour though now with hardly any snow. A perfect demonstration of how less than perfect weather can produce more beauty than a cloudless day of unbroken sunshine.
The descent was uneventful, coming down the corrie, skirting the steep prow and of course finishing up in more unpleasant bog!
The track climbs up through the trees and then descends steeply through bog to the forest edge so we hid the bikes in the trees near the highest point. Beyond the bothy the glen gradually narrows and Lochan Leum an t-Saigairt is hemmed in by very steep ground necessitating a traverse along a narrow trod high up on the southern side. A stalkers path leaves the glen just beyond the ill-defined col where once again the walker is forced onto the hillside, this time by a jumble of enormous boulders. The track is hard to find but higher up becomes quite clear as it heads up towards the Munro Sgurr nan Coireachan. It occured to me that an alternative approach to An Stac might be to come over this hill from Glenfinnan which would also allow the ascent of Beinn Gharbh, which almost makes it into the Corbett tables, to be incorporated into a very long day.
Today both Munro and SubCorbett were swathed in mist. Our hill however remained clear as we crossed the subsidiary top of Cnoc Gorm and climbed to the small summit cairn which we decorated with an antler picked up on the lower slopes. It was rather disappointing that what must be a splendid view was largely hidden by low mist over every other hill.
Disappointing also was the fact that we could be accomodated for only two nights so the climb of Trallval became a rush on the afternoon of arrival. We climbed as before to the Bealach Bairc-mheall but this time I contoured straight around to the Bealach an Oir between Askival and Trallval. Rowland's bad ankles could not consider this awkward steep slope along the side of the hill so he opted for Barkeval instead. Although this is a standard route described in the guidebook the path was indistinct and I ended up climbing too high amongst boulders and landslips. The route seemed a lot easier to follow on the way back which is probably the more used direction.
The climb up Trallval from the bealach is very steep with some scrambling towards the top. The twin summits are linked by a narrow ridge and the further west top is the higher, a marvellously airy spot to finish my quest. There was little time though for quiet contemplation despite the quite magnificent prospect. Such a scene of craggy peaks and island studded ocean is unique to Scotland's Hebridean Isles.
Trallval is often spelt as Trallaval or as Trollaval so its derivation from Norse mythology is obvious. Although the lowest of the Rum Cuillin it is perhaps also the rockiest, a suitable home for trolls, especially on such a day as we had before when the steep crags and pinnacles seen through the swirling mist repelled us. Today the trolls were in friendly mood and I felt only a deep contentment to be in this place on such a glorious afternoon and to complete here my collection of the Grahams which had given so much delight along the way.
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