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The Grahams - Autumn 1998

Mullach Coire nan Geur-oirean

23/10/98
At the end of October Scotland glows with the colours of autumn. Not only the trees but the grass itself takes on an orange hue. As we drove around the southern end of Loch Lochy to the parking place at the Eas Chia-aig the sun glinted through yellow birch trees. The loch threw back their reflection and I felt once more that melancholy magic which haunts the gaelic songs which we always play as we drive up the M74. So beautiful and yet so sad, singing of an enduring landscape which soon will be mine no longer.

The waterfall was in magnificent spate but I did not stop to admire it as I cycled by with the day already well advanced and my goal a long long way distant. On reaching Loch Arkaig however I just had to stop and grab a picture of a magnificent rainbow, the first of several on this very showery day.

A mountain bike would have been more suitable than my little folder for the rather rough track to Invermallie bothy. I persisted only a couple of kilometres further and then abandoned the bike and went straight up onto the ridge, here called Mullach na Briobaig. It would probably have been faster to have kept to the track for another three kilometres or so but it was rewarding to walk virtually the whole ridge and once up the steep tussocky grass of the nose the going was mainly reasonable with only a few peat hags to negotiate. There were many colourful lochans and it was difficult to distinguish those shown on the map from lesser unmarked pools. This was unimportant however on this clear day with the summit not in any doubt despite its very tiny cairn.

I came straight down just west of the tiny Coire nam Fuaran. As soon as I left the ridge the bellowing of rutting stags echoed up from the glen below. I followed the track down Glen Mallie soon to be overtaken by a heavy shower with one of the finest rainbows I have ever seen.

[pictures of this walk]

Stac Pollaidh

28/10/98
The oft used name, Stac Polly, for this hill is, I think, more or less an exact transliteration from the gaelic. It is an extremely popular litte hill and no wonder since the ridge is reached so easily from the road, bristles with picturesque pinnacles and gives superb views in all directions. The true summit lies at the western end and is guarded by an awkward step round a slightly lower rocky pinnacle. We had visited the hill twice and failed to negotiate this obstacle. On neither occasion had this bothered us particularly. The top just before the mauvais pas is almost as high and crowned by an equally obvious cairn. The top in those days did not appear in any list which we were collecting. In fact my second visit was made the day after I completed the Munros. I was almost pleased to find a lower hill which defeated me. With the acquisition of Dawson's tables my attitude altered. Now it became necessary to reach the real top since I now wanted to complete every hill more than 2000 feet high. I realized that I would need some help to reach the summit.

We made a rendezvous with son Martin in the carpark. He had romped across to the top on our last visit. Now he is more interested in climbing than peak-bagging. The weather was far from ideal with heavy hail showers and a very strong west wind. Just as we had almost decided to abandon the attempt it brightened up and we set out. Because of its popularity the steep path to the ridge is very eroded, although it has been pitched in places. On reaching the ridge a marvellous view northwards is revealed with Suilven the most conspicuous hill. The wind was less awful than we expected but the route westwards was not obvious with a maze of paths meandering amongst the pinnacles. At one point it seemed impossible to avoid a very exposed wet slippery and sloping slab. I cast dignity to the winds and shuffled across on my bottom. By now Rowland had decided to retreat and descend by the less steep path on the northern side of the ridge. His motivation for the top was less than mine since he also elected long ago never to attempt the In Pinn.

Martin and I arrived at the bad step. At first he suggested a direct climb of the pinnacle. Although I could see plenty of holds this climb would be horrifically exposed. By descending on the left for a short distance we found an easier route up a steep slab in a very sheltered corner where I still elected to have the reassurance of a rope. A big rock to grab onto made this fairly easy after the first couple of moves. Soon we were approaching my long coveted summit but we had to crawl the last few feet to the cairn as we were suddenly struck by the wind again, sweeping up over the steep western cliffs.

[pictures of this walk]

Lamachan Hill

re-ascent 16/11/98
I decided to polish off my unclimbed hills in Donald's list of 2000 foot tops in the Southern Uplands. Larg Hill is a southern outlier of Lamachan Hill and the easiest approach seemed to be from Glen Trool going over the higher hill on the way. I followed the Southern Upland Way until it was clear of trees and the approach onto the north-east ridge of Lamachan Hill looked feasible. This ridge is broad, ill-defined, rough and boggy in places but there were no problems on a brilliantly sunny day. There was snow above about 500m but it was powdery and easy going despite a very heavy frost which lingered all day. I climbed through the upper corrie, which would normally be rather boggy, and straight up to the flat summit plateau which has a cairn at the south end, perhaps not quite at the highest spot.

The stroll down to Larg Hill and back up again was thoroughly enjoyable on this perfect day. I then wandered over to the little rocky top of Bennanbrack before dropping back onto my outward route. A more interesting return, had I had more daylight, would have been over Curleywee, the most striking top in this cluster of hills.

[pictures of this walk]

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