The weather was awful. In fact we were rather surprised that the plane had come. Despite this we set out for a walk. "Don't go on the hills", warned our host. "But then you wouldn't in this weather". He had not reckoned with mad Marilyn baggers. Indeed for once it did not seem crazy to climb the hills in bad weather since it would have been even crazier to be on Foula and not climb them!
There are 2 Marilyns on the island. We walked to the south end of the single road and went up onto The Noup. Almost immediately we were in thick mist. The summit is unmarked but fairly narrow so there was no doubt that we had crossed the highest point although its exact location was ambiguous. We came down with the cliff on our left which made navigation quite simple despite visibility of only a few yards. A group of puffins stood on the grassy rim at one point, but the driving rain and gale force wind dissuaded us from stopping to seek a photo.
As the gradient eased onto the flat col we caught just a glimpse of waves breaking on the cliffs below. Then it was a straightforward plod up to the highest summit on a compass bearing. There were many bonxies nesting on this grassy hillside but they seemed strangely subdued in the mist and rain and made only half-hearted attempts to divebomb us and drive us away. The highest summit of Foula, The Sneug, is marked by a trig point and an enormous cairn behind which we crouched for shelter from the strong wind and torrential driving rain. Conditions could hardly have been more unpleasant!
A faint track led south-eastwards along the ridge which became well-defined as it swung east over Brustins and Hamnafield. This must be a quite delightful walk in more favourable weather. We did not drop out of the mist until we were nearly down at the airstrip where a group of hopeful businessmen awaited the afternoon plane which did not come. Later we were to enjoy their company at dinner and next day they returned to Mainland Shetland on the boat.
Meanwhile next day we went round the circuit again in the opposite direction. We walked to the north end of the island and just before we reached the end of the road got our only glimpse of the top of The Sneug.[picture 1] Then we climbed onto Soberlie Hill with excellent coastal views en route incorporating the impressive arched Gaada Stack.[picture 2] Ahead the great cliff of The Kame was visible through swirling mist.[picture 3] This is the second highest cliff in Britain, only a few feet lower than those on St Kilda. From the top it is less impressive with only the sea to be seen far below. The best view of all is from the little headland at Nebbifield where a group of puffins conferred on a grassy eminence just below the cliff edge.[picture 4] Our diversion back onto the top of The Sneug was a waste of time since the weather at the summit was just as awful as the day before.[picture 5] When we reached the col of the Smallie however we were in much clearer conditions and the top of the cleft called Sneck o' da Smallie was a beautifully sheltered lunch spot on a very stormy day.[picture 6] Ahead lay a steep climb onto The Noup.[picture 7] Disappointingly the puffins which we had seen the day before were no longer in residence. Also disappointingly the summit was once again in mist although this cleared later as we looked back at the hill across the bay of Hellabrick's Wick.[picture 8]
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